Flying North

As we’ve mentioned before it was really HOT in Egypt. We knew it was going to be hot but maybe not this hot. We sat around a lot of the day because it was so difficult to do anything from about 11am until 5pm. The hottest day we experienced was 118 degrees F (47 C). It was painful and easily made me feel sick. The wind would blow which made it worse because the air was so thick and…hot.  As July approached we realized the heat was only going to get more intense and my tolerance of the heat was getting less and less.

We finally made up our minds that we should go somewhere else that wasn’t as hot as Egypt. We aborted our plans to travel to Jordan, Isreal, and the Nile Valley and started looking for cheap flights away from the heat! We searched every city possible….London, Madrid, Frankfurt, Prauge, Vienna, Bangkok (not so north), even Moscow! We finally found a very reasonable flight to Athens, Greece. While still hot (as my sister reminded us!) it wasn’t 47 degrees.

Athens is a clean and modern city with a lot of history.  It is recorded as one of the oldest cities in the world and historically the center of development for art, philosophy, and sceince. The history is obvious as large monuments are in the city center. A few days in Athens was enough to see the Parthenon, the Acropolis, the Temple of Zeus, the amazing Archeological Museum (the best museum I have visited), and explore the vegetarian world of greek food. Please pass the Feta cheese!

Downtown Athens

The Acropolis of Athens

The parthenon (built in 447 BC0 at the acropolis is a temple dedicated the the goddess Athena whom the people considered their protector

The temple Erechteum built around 420 BC

In the pics you will notice the clouds in the sky. It actually rained the first day we were in Greece which we both LOVED after being in HOT Egypt. Nick’s comment was ”Trees, clouds, and tap water! I love this country.” It was a nice change from Egypt even though we both missed traveling in a developing country.

We then headed to the Greek Islands for a few days. Two Americans we met in the Cairo airport were going to the same island as we were. We ended up traveling with Liz and Ryan in the Greek Islands, hanging out on beches, telling stories, sharing an apartment, renting a car, and cooking food together. It was so much fun to make new friends and share stories and have new experiences.

We took ferries between the islands. I don't really like boats but it was a nice way to get around the area.

We visited picturesque Santorini, white sugar cubes built on the edge of a steep cliff. We rented mo-peds and cruised around the islands for the day, stopping in towns along the way and visiting a few black sand beaches.  We made it the the special spot where everyone on the island comes to watch the sunset. It was beautiful!

It was really fun to drive the mo peds!

Liz and Ryan crusing around the isalnd of santorini

the cliff side town Fira on the island of Santorini.

The main religion in Greece in Greek Orthodox. Little churches are scattered throughout the islands. They all have light blue domes on top.

the black sand beaches

watching the sunsunt in Oia

The next stop was Milos. A more quiet and quiant island with a few sleepy fishing villages and the island with the best beaches. This day we rented a car and drove around to enjoy the different beaches, have a picnic,  cliff jump, and swim in the Agean Sea.  We enjoyed making some good meals with Liz and Ryan and drinking cheap Greecean wine.

I really liked the mellow and quaint feeling of Milos

A beach on Milos, we swam in the crystal clear and very salty Agean sea

Nick and Ryan cliff jumping

Cooking yummy food with Liz and Ryan in our shared apartment

While in the islands we started brainstorming where we would go next. I started dreaming about Denmark which is on the same continent as Greece.  It didn’t seem realistic that we  fly to far north when we could visit Italy, Croatia or Slovenia.  Over a few days of searching, we found a really cheap ticket that took us to Copenhagen. A few rushed emails to contact family and friends were sent and then…..we had the next leg of our journey planned.

Nick sleeping in the Athens airport. Our flight to DK left at 3am

Egypt in pictures

Traveling can been quite busy and with slow internet it makes posting pictures difficult. Here are a few more pictures of Egypt; the food, the people, the experiences.  Nick talked about our experiences in these places in the previous post so you can look back to see the details. We enjoyed our time there despite the heat and GI distress.  We are grateful for pepto bismol and Immodium.

Our donkey taxi that tookus around the village.

The oasis in the desert, the date palm trees end and the Great sand sea (800km) begins. There are 18 sand seas in the world, 4 of them are in northern africa.

The original town of Siwa built in the 13th century out of mud bricks housed hundreds of people.

Buying some Egyptian cookies. Being in a different culture means you have to learn cultural customs for littl things, like cookie shopping

Hotels, modern buildings, and lots of boats along the Nile

Koshary- rice, pasta, spaghetti, lentils with a tomato sauce and fried onions on top. Add some vinegar and hot chili oil to flavor.

Carts with food for sale. Mint, corriander, limes, olives.

Falafel stands selling cheap and greasy food. A falfel snadwich cost 20 cents and was falafel, coleslaw,and hummus in a warm pita! A gauranteed gut bomb.

Pita bread for sale on every street corner. It was laid out in the sun on carts, on cars, on wood planks.

Rabbit, Pigeon, or Duck....what's for dinner??

Two men sitting in the shade, finding relief from the heat of the day. Watermelons for sale.

A spice market on the streets of Cairo

Friday at noon is when muslims go to mosque. This whole room will be filled with men, each one on his own "rug" or the square on the floor, to pray.

A clock in the mosque with the prayer times for the day. Five times a day the prayer call can be heard verywhere in the city. Every day the times are different according to the sun's patterns.

One of Cairo's first mosques, built in 970 AD, it is still a pretigious place to study Islamic theology. The three minarets were built in 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries.

A view of Cairo from the top of a minaret. This is the "old" part of Cairo and I am very HOT in this picture.

An "egyptian breakfast"...eggs,falafel, hummus, cucumber, feta cheese mixed with tomato, and fuul (a type of refried beans). oh! and I almost forgot the tea (with LOTS of sugar added).

the light in the picture is not so good, but the coral is really colorful and extremely intricate. We really swam here all day long.

An Eel swimming along the surface

Nick swimming with the fishies at the Blue Hole, a famous scuba spot near Dahab on the Sinai Penninsula. We are in the Red Sea here..

Egypt

So my last post was about my time in Turkey, and since then I have spent even more time in Turkey finishing the final project for the town of Bitez and then traveled a bit more around Turkey before meeting Jess in Cairo. The final project went great — our group of 10 students and Korkut — our professor — completed work coming up with a framework for the municipality on how they can integrate tourism and agriculture to save what is left of the agricultural land and promote tourism in the area. We presented our work to the mayor, some town council members, and other interested members of the community. The presentation went quite well even though it went for over an hour and a half. Here is a link to the presentation.
INSERT PRESENTATION HERE

Since then, quite a bit of traveling has happened in Egypt. Jess and and I met in Cairo after not seeing each other for over a month. It was really good to see each other and has been fun to go into traveling mode together again :)

We started out in Cairo getting used to a massive city filled with tons of people, tons of cars, lots of pollution, and a heat wave that we are not really used to.

In front of Egyption Museum

Here I am in front of one of the pyramids

Here we are with the sphinx and some pyramids

One of the first things we did was to head out to the Giza pyramids — very huge and as cool as we thought they would be. We walked around seeing everything without much shade, so we were pretty hot and dehydrated. Was fun to see something 4000 years old and something so iconic and well known throughout the world. Lots of touts offering kitsch and camel rides, but we waded through all of them. They are actually in GIza — a suburb of Cairo and not out in the middle of the desert as the pictures make them look.

Jess took a break to kiss the great sphinx

To “escape” the heat, we took the 2 hour train ride up to Alexandria which is on the Mediterranean. The train ride was nice — got tickets in first class which meant spacious seats and air conditioning. Thought the coffee and snacks would be included but we guessed wrong — extra money :( In Alexandria we got a nice place on the 5th floor of an old building which overlooked the Mediterranean.

Overlook from our hotel in Alexandria

Alexandria is by no means a relaxing city — it’s the 2nd biggest city in Egypt with over 4 million people. Everyone from cairo heads up there to escape the heat of summer just like we did, but it was still quite hot at mostly above 100 degrees.

While in Alexandria, we enjoyed the ancient history of the city. Most of what has happened there such as one of the ancient wonders of the world the lighthouse and the ancient library which used to be the largest library in the world have been completely destroyed, but there are still a few remnants of what used to be. Of the things still there, we saw Pompeii’s pillar which is a massive 30 meter granite pillar erected to support a statue of Diocletian in 291 AD.

Pompii's Pillar

. We also visited the catacombs which is down by water level where caves were carved out to bury people.

One of the most modern and cool (literally really air conditioned ) was the new library which was built recently and is huge! The original Alexandria library was built in the 3rd century BC and was the largest library of it’s time with 700,000 works written on papyrus scrolls. Everything was destroyed, but on display in the new library is an old manuscript that they found on a mummy’s face. We enjoyed learning about more of the history of Alexandria in some of the museums which were in the library. A lot has happened and has been destroyed.

After Alexandria, we took an 8 hour night bus ride to SIWA OASIS which is located in the desert near the Liberian border. The oasis, which is one of 5 in Egypt, was formed by a low spot in the desert where natural springs flow out of the ground. Surrounded completely by uninhabitable desert, this area was full of date palms and olive trees.

Palm Tree grove where we stayed

During the day, it got really hot (118 degrees) as we were in the middle of the desert, so we spent the afternoons sitting in the shade in the palm gardens with a fan. Couldn’t really do much else without feeling the fire of the sun. We did manage to visit several of the springs int he area for some swimming fun. The first one we visited we traveled to in the back of a motor taxi with two other travelers. It was a hour ride in the back of the motor-taxi, but it was covered so it wasn’t too bad. We traveled through the huge salt lake there and ended up at the spring where we swam.

In the back of the motocart which took us out to the springs to swim in

Swimming in one of the springs we visited. Water was usually pretty ummm... gross

The water was kind of gross, but it was a spring which was constantly circulating. It was really refreshing to get in the water after being out in the heat. On the way back to town, we got to see the twilight of the sun over the water we were traveling next to, and it was beautiful.

Buying some souveniers -- and no, Jess didn't buy this one

The next day we went to a different spring — this time on a Donkey taxi. There are more donkeys in Siwa than cars or other motorized vehicles, and the 17 year old kid was quite an entrepreneur with his tour brochures in the back of his cart. He took us very slowly but in style out to Cleopatra spring and the temple of the oracle where it is thought Alexander the great traveled to to consult the oracle on some issues. He is thought to have been buried somewhere near there as well.

Had our driver snap this photo of us on the dune

My favorite thing we did in Siwa was take a trip out into the great sand sea. We got a 4×4 vehicle to take us out into the sand dunes where we drove up and over. Was quite fun! There was a very isolated spring out there where we did some swimming — quite peaceful to have it ourselves for a while but then a huge group arrived which detracted a bit from the peacefulness.

Walking through the great sand sea

We watched the sunset from the top of a dune which was amazing

Our driver then dropped us off and set up a tent for us. We slept out in the middle of the dunes which was great — wouldn’t have wanted to be there during the middle of the day though.

Jess on a dune

In the morning we sand boarded down the dunes before the driver picked us up. Not as easy as snowboarding but was fun to try!

While Siwa was fun, it was still really hot! So, we decided to head a long ways away to Dahab which is a hippie resort town on the red sea. After 4 buses and almost 24 hours, we arrived.

Dahab is known for it’s world class diving, and the resorts that cator to divers and other adventure sports oriented wind surfers were a nice break from the Egyptian food we had been eating. We spent a lot of time relaxing in the wind and in the Bedouin style lounges by the seaside.

Jess in one of the lounges

We did snorkeling a couple of the days we were there and got some average shots with our new underwater camera. The light was not too great, but it was fun diving down to see all of the marine life and the reef which was really close to the shore.

Dahab is 2 hours from Moses mountain which is where they think moses climbed for the 10 commandments. We hiked up starting around 1am and reached the top 94 minutes before sunrise. Very cold when the sun isn’t up yet but it was refreshing.

Sunrise on top of Moses Mountain in the Sinai Mountains

After a few days in Dahab, we decided to come back to Cairo instead of exploring Jordan and Israel. We’ve been seeing some of the things we missed the first few days we were here such as Islamic Cairo and the market area.

We are now packing up our stuff to start the next leg of our journey into Greece. Although Egypt has lots of stuff we still haven’t seen, the heat is getting to us. Greece will be a bit cooler even though it is still quite hot there.

I wrote most of this post a few days ago. We’re now in Greece enjoying the sights in Athens. Saw the Parthenon and Acropolis and have been chilling out here. We’re headed to Milos this afternoon on a ferry and will be on the island for a couple days.

Then on with this crazy trip – headed to Denmark for our finale. Jess lived there and has visited there several times and I have never seen it. Should be a good opportunity for her to show me her favorite country! We found some very cheap plane tickets which made it fit into our trip budget.

Well, updating this blog is a lot of work when you don’t do it very often. We have a ton more pictures of our travels so far. When we get back we will work on an online photo album to share with everyone… hopefully. I always have big plans of doing those sorts of things so we’ll see what happens.